Surfs Up
1/2/2007, VI
Last couple of days the surf was definitely up. We surfed every day.
I'v been worked and pounded by the biggest waves I have seen in real
life... With my not so long surfing experience the 14 faces where a lil
bit to big for me. I was trying to catch some, but I just got worked
and worked by those monsters. But I kept trying. The good thing is I
won't be that scared of big waves any more and my duck diving skills
got a lot better, although failed a couple of times what causes me to
get dragged in all the way and I had a nice 30 min peddle to get back
out! I'm lovin it. But that was only 2 days that it was that big. The
rest I just rode those babies like sugar. To morrow the wind is suppose
to pick up so hoping to get some nice kiting time before I leave!!
1/2/2007, VI
Last couple of days the surf was definitely up. We surfed every day.
I'v been worked and pounded by the biggest waves I have seen in real
life... With my not so long surfing experience the 14 faces where a lil
bit to big for me. I was trying to catch some, but I just got worked
and worked by those monsters. But I kept trying. The good thing is I
won't be that scared of big waves any more and my duck diving skills
got a lot better, although failed a couple of times what causes me to
get dragged in all the way and I had a nice 30 min peddle to get back
out! I'm lovin it. But that was only 2 days that it was that big. The
rest I just rode those babies like sugar. To morrow the wind is suppose
to pick up so hoping to get some nice kiting time before I leave!!
